Pick whatever you like at Bastián in Aarhus City Center — Three friends bring the spirit of San Sebastián to one of Aarhus' oldest dining rooms

Txakoli by the glass, a pintxos bar where the chefs work in plain view, and one of Aarhus' oldest dining rooms cooking the Mediterranean at full tilt. Noah Overgaard Sørensen, Karl Milvang Nørregaard, and Marinus Drivsholm Møhl kept returning to Basque Country until they had no choice but to bring it home. At Bastián, that obsession shows.

The menu changes daily, and produce only reaches the plate at its peak, so saying yes is usually the right move. Start with pintxos—gratinéed goat cheese and lardo, tomato compote and tuna—and don't miss the Gildas with house-marinated anchovies. Then let the kitchen take over: squid grilled over open flame and bathed in ajo blanco, whole mackerel finished with pil pil sauce, grilled pork with salsa verde. Alongside it all, vermouth, European wines, and local beers.

Aperitivo becomes a few plates. A few plates become dinner. That's the point.